Wine lovers the world over visit this terrace overlooking the Val
d'Orcia to pay homage to the birthplace of one of the pillars of Italian
wine, Brunello di Montalcino. At this time of year in Montalcino, the
Sangiovese grapes have been harvested and are quietly transforming into
Bacchus' delicious nectar in more than 200 wineries. Both Rosso and
Brunello di Montalcino are made with only Sangiovese Grosso grapes
according to strict regulations set out by the Consorzio di Brunello di
Montalcino. The different microclimates and soil types on the four sides
of the hill result in variations on the theme of the Sangiovese. The
best way to discover these differences is to swirl, smell and taste.
C'e' l'imbarazzo della scelta;
you are spoiled for choice with the number of wine shops and bars where
you can indulge in a wine tasting. If you would rather see where all
the magic happens, book guided tours in advance at your favourite
wineries, as some are by appointment only, or catch the Wine Bus.
Leave your car in Montalcino and hop on the Wine Bus so you can spend
the day tasting Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino, and such other local
wines as Moscadello di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo DOC, without worrying
about the effects of Sangiovese behind the wheel. This new service,
which conveniently chauffeurs wine enthusiasts to participating
wineries, runs every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday through October,
leaving as early as 9am; it follows different itineraries for the
morning and afternoon trips. Get your tickets at authorized vendors in
the city or contact the Pro Loco (located in the old town hall in the
centre) for further information. The Wine Bus makes its last stop of the
season at the end of October.
Fortezza
Start your tour of Montalcino with a visit to the Fortress, a fine
example of military architecture built in 1381. It is open from 9am to
6pm during winter hours and costs 4 euro (6 euro for both the Fortress
and museum visits) to climb up to the ramparts. (Enter through the wine
shop located in the far corner of the courtyard.) From the top, the
surrounding countryside may seem bare after the various harvests, but
the brown shades of the tilled land and the autumn-coloured vines are
all part of the breathtaking and iridescent natural patchwork quilt that
spreads across the Val d'Orcia.
While admiring the view, you can imagine the number of times this
fortress has been under attack. English art historian and part time
resident in nearby Sant'Angelo in Scalo, Anabel Thomas, recently
published
Oscar's Tale, a fantastical story, written in Italian
and English, that intertwines facts from the past and fiction from the
present about the siege of the Fortress in Montalcino to explain the
realities of war to her grandchildren. Refer to the folding map at the
back of the book to see the different factions that camped out in their
attempts to strike the hilltop stronghold. The Fortress was home to the
Republic of Siena from 1555 to 1559 after being defeated by Florence. As
such, Siena holds Montalcino in high regard, giving it a place in the
historical procession for the Palio.
As you leave the Fortress, walk straight on down via Ricasoli. This
street is lined with quaint shops selling wine, souvenirs and honey.
Also on the left side of the street, take note of number 32: this is the
entrance to Osteria Porta al Cassero, known as ‘da Piero' by the
locals.
Siena's traditional
pici pasta is called ‘
pinci' here in Montalcino. Put your fork-twirling skills to the test with these handmade strings of pasta in
battuto, with the traditional meat sauce,
all'aglione, a garlic and tomato sauce, or my personal favorite,
alle briciole, simply topped with breadcrumbs and olive oil (see page 20 for a recipe!).
The hearty local fare is deliciously authentic, and the prices are
reasonable. It is always quite busy, so get there early enough to get a
table.
Go further on via Ricasoli and you will find the Museum of
Archaeological, Medieval and Modern collections to your right. Use your
combined ticket from the Fortress here to see a noteworthy collection of
local archaeological finds that recount the life of this territory,
which has been inhabited since Etruscan times, in addition to works by
such artists as Duccio di Buoninsegna, Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti
and Vincenzo Tamagni.
From the museum, go straight on and take the second left up via
Spagni following the brown sign to the Cathedral of San Salvatore, which
is only open in the morning. Noteworthy are the remnants of the ancient
door to the original parish church on this site located to your left on
the inside. Most people stop and admire the view from the garden and
hang out on the stone benches for a rest. From here, in the distance you
can see Montepulciano on the horizon with Pienza and its white bell
tower just before it.
Just along via Spagni, you may find Carlotta Parisi in front of her
colourful shop working on her latest project. This young local artist
creates papier-mâché sculptures, clay figurines, traditional clay
whistles and more.
From the cathedral, head down the two steep blocks of Costa Spagni
and turn right to the main square. Piazza del Popolo is the heart of
Montalcino for both young and old. Children still play football and ride
their bikes in the piazza while the old-timers argue about the latest
political scandal under the portico. You may notice the unique clock on
the bell tower that only has one hand. Try guessing the time before the
bell tolls the hour!
Take via Matteotti to the left of the old city hall until you can
turn left down via Donnoli all the way to the end for one of the best
views of town itself. Make your way back to the ancient Palazzo Comunale
and admire the tiles that are located on the side of the building, near
Piazza Garibaldi. Each tile represents a Brunello vintage and indicates
the number of stars for that year. On your walk, look carefully at the
house numbers to see the colours and names of the four quarters of
Montalcino.
Sagra del Tordo
Step back in time on the last weekend of October for the Sagra del
Tordo, the Thrush Festival. Food, wine and archery are the focus of this
annual event based on past traditions of Montalcino when the four
neighbourhoods, or
quartieri, battle it out on the archery
field for the silver arrow and the glory of victory. Archers are real
heroes around here, and children, draped in their
quartieri's
colours, tinker with plastic bows and arrows or bang on toy drums in the
crowd that follows the historical procession to make offerings to the
Lord and Lady of the Fortress. The four quarters set up food stands on
both the Saturday and Sunday for lunch in the garden near the Fortress,
each with a separate menu of traditional local dishes. There is so much
to choose from that you won't even notice that
tordi are not on
the menus. It is also possible to feast on their specialities in their
halls. This is the biggest event of the year in Montalcino, so book your
accommodations and lunch reservations early. Information and schedule
of events are available on the Pro Loco website.
Sant'Antimo
Leave some time for a quick trip to the Abbey of Sant'Antimo,
located just 9km from the Bacchus roundabout near the stadium. Legend
has it that this abbey was built where Charlemagne once lit a votive
candle in thanksgiving. There are many legends, but one thing is
certain: Sant'Antimo is stunning in all of its simplicity, as it soars
up from the valley surrounded by cultivated fields and olive groves. The
schedule for the prayer times in Gregorian chant is available at
www.antimo.it.
HOW TO GET THERE
Montalcino is just over 40km south of Siena. Take the SR2 to
Buonconvento and then turn right and head up the hill 9 km. Do not enter
at the first gate where you see the white Montalcino 564 sign. Instead,
continue on and shortly after on the left, there are some free parking
spaces. Some other free spots are located down viale Roma or behind the
city hall on viale Postierla. These free spots may involve a bit of a
walk before you start your tour, but they might be worth your while. I
have overheard tourists from Rome exclaiming how parking isn't even as
expensive at the Vatican!
